Each year the cog railway from the little town of Puchberg to the alpine plateau of the Schneeberg massif is opened around late April (it is out of operation during the winter due to huge snow drifts and avalanche danger).

Puchberg railway station with the Schneeberg

Then the many couloirs and chutes of the Schneeberg massif are easily accessible even for the lazy freerider who might be discouraged by the two to three hours approach during the winter. The train ride with the cog railway lasts about 50 minutes and then most of the entries of the various skiing runs are within a short hike up to about 40 to 50 minutes.

Earn your turns at the Schneeberg

Thanks to this short approach two (or even three) runs are easily possible. Usually we choose a warm-up run at the southern side in the forenoon. Though the conditions at the southern side (this time we chose the Saugraben for our first descent) were rather mixed. The below average snow cover of the winter combined with a general warm spring resulted in almost “early summer” conditions.

Late season corn in the Saugraben, Schneeberg

Then, at the afternoon the snow at the northern couloirs should be “corny” enough. My personal favourite is the Narrndattl Couloir which is an alternative entry into the massif snow bowl of the so called “Breite Ries”. It is a neat little couloir, steep and narrow but not intimidating and it holds the snow really long due to its northern exposition. After the couloir itself the wide slopes open up and provide almost perfect terrain for wide turns.

Entrance of the Narrndattl Couloir at the Schneeberg

The Narrndattl couloir is one of the lesser known descents of the Schneeberg. The steepest part of the couloir is about 43 degrees. It was first skied by Wolfgang Ladenbauer in 1973. Wolfgang Ladenbacher is the author of the standard ski guide book of the Schneeberg massif (highly recommended but in German only).

Imagine a small village deep in an alpine valley. A single cable car going up high into the mountains. No groomed runs leading downhill. Only off-piste runs, perfect for the days after a big dump. And, of course, a huge alpine backcountry with gnarly couloirs and all this stuff.

“Bingo!”, you’ll say, “that’s La Grave in France, for sure.”
“Hold on”, I would say, “that’s Hirschwang at the Rax, just some 80 kilometres south of Vienna”.
And I would be laughing at you for your ignorance and I would tell you my fairy tale of an epic powder day.

Rax massif, seen from the valley around Reichenau, the cable car area is seen in the right part of the picture, photo credits see below

The Rax is a huge mountain massif forming a plateau just above 1500m and peaking in the Heukuppe (2006m) in the westernmost part of the massif. Steep walls surround the whole massif offering some of the best possibilities for alpine climbing in the Vienna region. Hirschwang is located at the easternmost part of the mountain.

Rax cable car near the valley floor, Hirschwang, Lower Austria

The Rax cable car was built as early as 1921 and thus being Austria’s oldest cable car. The total vertical of the cable car is about 1020m! The terrain around the cable car is rather steep with some chutes and couloirs leading down into the woods. At the mellow plateau itself there is a single T-bar offering some beginner slopes and some terrain for park-oriented skiers.

There are various downhill runs which have been skiing for decades now (Schöllergraben, Lahngraben, Seilbahngraben, Maschingraben). All these runs offer fantastic off-piste skiing if the snow is fresh and deep enough. Add some touring possibilities from the top of the railway station (for example Grosser Kesselgraben for the beginners or Grosser Wolfsgraben for advanced skiers) and you get a quite versatile off-piste ski “resort”. Of course, there are dozens of other ascents and descents around this huge mountain but most of them do have different starting points.

Skiing deep powder in the Maschingraben, Rax

Skiing deep powder in the Seilbahngraben, Rax

However, there is one significant caveat. Due to the minimal elevation of the valley floor (just about 520m around the valley station of the cable car in Hirschwang) the snow is only plenty and good enough at certain times during the winter. So the 1000m vertical runs in the vicinity of the cable car are to be enjoyed only a few times during a winter. So you have to be lucky enough to be there in the right time …

Photo credits Rax, view from the valley floor

After a long period of mild weather with too warm temperatures it finally started to snow in the mountains. The higher areas of the Schneeberg were already white with some snow and the temperature at the summit (see Schneeberg webcams) dropped well below zero Celsius during the course of the day. And it is forecast to get even colder with a decreasing snow line. Precipitation should be significant with snow as low as 500 m or even lower. Some forecasts speak about up to one meter of precious snow. The specific meteorological setting which brings this welcomed change is explained in a detailed forum discussion of the snow event October 2009 (in German).

Though the odds are high that there will be the usual setbacks of warm weather periods this first glimpse of winter helps to get into the right mood for the coming skiing season.

By the way, almost exactly one year ago my buddies Gernot and Ronald enjoyed fresh autumn powder at the Schneeberg. The following photos were made by Gernot at October, 5th 2008.

Schneeberg, autumn colors and the first glimpse of winter

Schneeberg, first ski tracks

The Schneeberg (literally translated: Snow Mountain) is remarkable in many respects.

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And this list could even go on. Indeed, the Schneeberg is a mighty mountain massif. It is also easily reachable from Vienna both with car as well as with public transport. The entry point to the Schneeberg is Puchberg, a nice traditional spa town, worth a visit by its own right.

There are many ways to climb the Schneeberg. The easiest one is going by the old cog railway leaving directly from the Puchberg train station to the Hochschneeberg plateau, 1798m. From there it is only a skin (or hike) of about 40 minutes to the two summits (Klosterwappen and Kaiserstein). However, this option is only available in spring (usually late April) since the train is not operated during the winter month due to avalanche danger.

During winter the standard option to climb the Schneeberg starts in Losenheim (780m), a small village and ski resort with only one chairlift and an accompanying drag lift. If you are lazy enough, using the chair lift which goes to a saddle North-West of the Schneeberg massif spares about 40-60 minutes of skinning or about 400m vertical ascent. Directly at the chair lift’s top station starts the ascent called “Fadenweg” which is relatively safe during the whole winter.

Last spring there were ideal corn snow conditions at the Schneeberg. When the cog railway opened its operation at the end of April we decided to make a round trip involving some warm up skiing in the Bockgrube and the Hackermulde. The Bockgrube is a huge bowl, south of the main summit of the Schneeberg and the Hackermulde is a nice bowl just between the two summits.

Then it was time for the final downhill for which we chose the so called Narrndattl couloir. A narrow and quite steep couloir providing access to the Breite Ries, the huge bowl at the East side of the Schneeberg massif. The descent was in perfect conditions and it was possible to ski down to about 1200m. The change of scenery from the snowy mountain to the green meadows around Schneebergdörfl back in the valley near Puchberg was really amazing.

The last winter was a pretty good one in the Vienna region. Continous dumps guaranteed a series of epic powder days. However in the short run it affected the range of possibilities negatively since avalanche danger in the region stayed at level 4 for quite a long period of time.

That resulted in some really defensive route choices by us. Staying in mellow terrain and under the tree line was the right thing to do with regard to safety issues. This allowed for some fine companions for our skiing outings. Though I am not a particular dog-lover skiing with man’s best friends was extremely enjoyable. Experiencing the fun these nice creatures did have in the snow was a great pleasure and made some nice photo opportunities.

Sabine and her dogs, Hohenberger Gschwendt

Angus, Hohenberger Gschwendt

It was amazing to see the different behaviour of the two dogs due to their particular races. Angus, the shepherd, was running continuously between the three of us, soon to get exhausted. At the end of the day we almost feared we had to carry him down at our backs. Whereas Naja with her husky origins was ploughing economically through the snow and never lost her energies.

Cornices, skiers and dogs, ascent to Wildalpe

Angus

Dogs, Wildalpe

Naja, Wildalpe

Locations: Hohenberger Geschwendt and Lahnsattel-Wildalpe (Vienna Region)
Dates: February 2009
All photo credits go to my buddy Gerrit, who is also the owner of the dogs

If Hannes Schneider was the father of modern skiing then Mathias Zdarsky should be regarded as the grandfather of our sport. The skiing technique developed by Mathias Zdarsky (known as Lilienfeld ski technique) and his path breaking binding system were instrumental for the propagation of skiing in alpine terrain. As early as 1905 he initiated the first alpine skiing competition in Lilienfeld using 24 poles (gates) to mark the run (which would equate to a giant slalom today).

Mathias Zdarsky was born in 1856 in Kozichowitz in Moravia, then part of the Austro-Hungarian Hapsburg Empire (Czech Republic today). After finishing his studies in Brno (Moravia, Czech Republic) as school teacher he went to Vienna (1874) and eventually to Lilienfeld (1889), an industrial town in Lower Austria just south of St. Pölten. In Lilienfeld he developed his skiing technique using the steep slopes of the Muckenkogel (1258m) and the Spitzgraben just in the vicinity of the town as training grounds. In 1896/97 Zdarsky published his first book on his skiing technique: “Lilienfelder Ski-Technik” which totalled 17 editions until 1926.

Lilienfeld and the Muckenkogel in the background, ca. 1905

An important milestone for alpine skiing was the year 1905 when Mathias Zdarsky invited Ing. Hassa Horn, a famous Holmenkolm winner from Norway, to join a skiing competition which should prove that the Lilienfeld ski technique was superior to the Norwegian Telemark technique. Zdarsky chose the steep slopes of the Breite Ries, a huge alpine bowl at the Schneeberg, as test bed for this competition. The result was that Hassa Horn admitted defeat and declared Mathias Zdarsky as victorious (rumours say that Horn refused to ski the steeper part of the bowl) and the Lilienfeld ski technique proved to be as indeed superior for steep, alpine terrain. The Breite Ries is still a favorite ski descent among many skiers in the Vienna region. Zdarsky and Horn did not ski the steep and narrow couloir-like entrance which is about 36 degrees steep but did only ski the open bowl below the entrance which is about 32 degrees steep. However, given the equipment skiing the Breite Ries was definitely a prove about the usability of the new ski technique in ‘real’ alpine terrain.

Skiing in the Breite Ries bowl at the Schneeberg (Lower Austria) near Vienna

Already 60 years old, Mathias Zdarsky served as an alpine instructor during World War 1 (1914-1918) and taught about the dangers of avalanches which proved to be extremely hazardous in the mountain war at the Italian front. During a rescue operation in 1916 he was buried by an avalanche. He survived wounded with dozens of broken bones and severe vertebra injuries leaving him handicapped for the rest of his life.

Mathias Zdarsky died in 1940 and was buried at his mansion in Habernreith in Lilienfeld, Lower Austria. Today an entire section of the Bezirksheimatmuseum in Lilienfeld is devoted to Mathias Zdarsky. The Muckenkogel near Lilienfeld is still a popular ski area. A single chairlift (open at weekends, around Christmas and during the public school holidays in the first week of February) provides access to the historic ski slopes.

There are several hundred backcountry skiing tours around Vienna. To be honest, only a handful of them do have a somewhat ‘alpine’ character. Most ski mountains close to Vienna are below the tree-line (about 1500 metres in this region) and thus are covered by sometimes dense forests and do have a somewhat hilly look. However, some mountain massifs are standing out over the crowd of hilly mountains. These mountains reach altitudes close to 2000m and thus their relative elevation to the surrounding environment is significant (in the case of Schneeberg it is about 1500 metres relative to the surrounding valleys). The peaks and summits of these mountains are well above the tree-line and, due to their geologic structures (steep limestone walls and cliffs), they have a considerable alpine character. As a downside their summit areas are extremely exposed to the usual storms (measured maximum wind speeds are well over 250 km per hour). So more often than not the snow at the slopes close to the summits is heavily influenced by the winds. Powder is often to be found only in some basins protected from winds and in the woods below the tree-line.

Here is a list of these mountain massifs close to Vienna (about 1 to 1.5 hour car drive from the Vienna city centre) and a short description of their skiing potential.

Schneeberg (2076m):

The highest mountain of Lower Austria (the federal state around Vienna) is also the Easternmost 2000er of the entire Alps. In clear air this outstanding mountain is visible from some points in Vienna as well as from western Hungary (around Sopron). This mountain offers extremely versatile skiing options for the whole winters. The standard ascent “Fadenweg” from Losenheim (small ski resort with a detachable chair lift which shortens the ascent) is straightforward and relatively safe (except after massif snow falls). The number of ski runs (including variants) goes well above hundred different options from easy to extremely difficult. The maximum vertical is 1500 m which is the maximum for the whole region.

Rax (2007m):

The Rax is a mountain massif South of the Schneeberg. A cable car gives access to the Rax pleatau (a relatively flat alpine plateau about 1500 to 1800 m ) the East of the mountain massif. This cable car departs in Hirschwang and was the first cable car built in Austria. There is a small drag lift near the top station of the cable car but the routes down to the valley are ungroomed and offer some of the best lift-assisted freeride possibilities (if conditions are good) of the entire Vienna region. The vertical is about 1000m. There are some dozens ski touring options at the Rax. An important starting point is the Preiner Gscheid (1070m) a mountain pass of the road leading from Hirschwang over to Styria. The Heukuppe (2007), the highest peak of the Rax massif is accessed via Preiner Gscheid – Karlgraben, one of the busiest ski tours of the entire Rax (though this route is not safe under certain conditions).

Ötscher (1893m):

The Ötscher is the defining mountain of the region West of Vienna. It towers well above all its neighbouring mountains and offers extremely interesting ski runs (from intermediate to difficult) both at its north as well as at its south sides. The ski resort of Lackenhof (several chairlifts and drag lifts, 16 kilometers of groomed pistes) eases the access to the summit considerable (1 h hike or skin to the summit from the top station of the double chair lift). The maximum vertical is about 1050m.

Schneealpe (1903m):

The Schneealpe is a mountain massif in Styria south of the Rax massif. Its highest peak is the Windberg (literally Windy Mountain). Like most of the mountain massifs of this region there is a fairly large and flat plateau just below the peak from which several ski runs of different difficulties are leading down in all directions. Though offering quite interesting terrain and runs the Schneealpe is somewhat overlooked by many skiers. Thus, for those looking for a solitary ski adventure the Schneealpe is probably a good bet. The maximum vertical of the ski runs is about 1000 m.

Hohe Veitsch (1981m):

The Hohe Veitsch is a huge mountain massif stretching from West to East. There are small (but interesting) ski resorts directly in the North (Niederalpl Pass, 1100-1450 m) and South (Brunnalm, 1000-1500m). Ascents to the main peak of the Veitsch start from both of these ski resorts. Some secondary peaks of the Veitsch offer interesting runs, which tend to hold powder fairly well (somewhat protected from storms). The classic approach is from the South via the Brunnalm / Schallerrinne and the Graf Meran hut. The classic ascent (and descent) from the North is the Rodel (starting near the tiny hamlet of Niederalpl at about 950m), a fairly long skin with some interesting slopes and one small step to scramble over (short iron ladder and wired ropes). The maximum vertical is about 1000m.

Photo credits Rax

Avalanches are a part of the history of many alpine villages in Austria. There is quite detailed documentation of avalanche hazards in the high mountain villages of Tyrol for example. The late Franz Fliri (1918-2008) of the University of Innsbruck gathered old records of many natural hazards in Tyrol for the last centuries showing how these hazards were a constant threat to the rural societies in the alpine valleys of Austria.

However, only a few know that even in Lower Austria avalanche hazards had been responsible for dozens of deaths and had caused serious troubles repeatedly. The little village (about 150 inhabitants) of Lahnsattel (950m) at the border between Lower Austria and Styria is a perfect example for the devastating impact of avalanches. Located just on the foot of the steep slopes of the Goeller (1766m) the Lahnsattel village (950m) was devastated by large catastrophic avalanches repeatedly in the nineteenth century and even in the early and mid twentieth century.

The village was founded by loggers who immigrated around 1780 into the region which then was still a huge primeval forest unspoilt by civilization. The loggers served the ever growing demand of Vienna for wood and lumber, the primary energy source at the time. Later on a secondary village was founded, called Donaudörfl which was centred on charburning providing charcoal for the infant iron industry in the Lilienfeld – Türnitz area.

The name “Lahnsattel” has its origins in the local term “Lahn” for avalanche as the steep slopes of the Goeller are notorious for large avalanches which repeatedly travel down to the very valley floor. According to chronicles some of these avalanches destroyed parts of the village in 1844 (causing 11 deaths) and in 1878 (destroying almost the entire village causing 13 deaths). Further catastrophic avalanches are reported for 1907, 1909 and 1923 (causing two deaths). In 1944 some large avalanches flattened huge forest areas but without destroying houses in the village.

Even today the road over the Lahnsattel pass (1015m) has to be closed during snow-rich winters because of avalanche danger. The region is particularly exposed to orographic (relief) precipitation and thus extremely snow-rich.

This area is completely off the beaten path and thus a really gem for all skiers who like to enjoy the backcountry off the ski resorts. The ski runs around the Goeller offer a variety of different possibilities for powder as well as corn snow. If avalanche danger is too high the Wildalpe just south of the Lahnsattel pass is an easy and safe alternative for getting some turns. Beside ski mountaineering the limited winter tourism is based mainly on cross-country skiing with some interesting tracked routes around the Lahnsattel pass.

Lahnsattel. A Winter Idyll

The Graveyard of Lahnsattel, Lower Austria

Link: History of Lahnsattel (in German)

Source: Fliri, Franz (1998): Naturchronik von Tirol. Beiträge zur Klimatographie von Tirol. UVW, Innsbruck

There is a lot of history to be discovered in the Vienna region. The legacy of the former Hapsburg Empire is everywhere. And of course, some remarkable stories of the skiing history have its origins here in the Vienna region. It was the transport infrastructure developed throughout the nineteenth century which opened up the region and its mountains for us skiers. Let’s praise the inventive engineers and the many unnamed workers who managed to construct these infrastructures.

One particular helpful infrastructure is the cog railway from Puchberg up to the Schneeberg massif. This traditional cog railway was built between 1894 and 1897. It departs from the railway station in Puchberg/Schneeberg (576m) and goes to the plateau of the so called Hochschneeberg (1795m) near the two summits of the Schneeberg (Klosterwappen , 2076m and Kaiserstein, 2064m).

Cog railway Schneebergbahn (Lower Austria), ca. 1900

The Schneebergbahn was operated for decades using the same old steam locomotives. However, recently the trains were modernised and today a diesel train called Salamander transports the passengers in about 50 minutes to the summit station. Nowadays, the steam locomotives are in operation only on special occasions during the summer months. Though the Schneebergbahn is closed in winter the annual opening is usually in late April and thus provides an easy access to the fabulous spring skiing possibilities in the many couloirs of the Schneeberg massif.

Hotel Hochschneeberg (Lower Austria), ca. 1900

The summit of the Schneeberg is accessed via the Hacker bowl which is just below the two main peaks (Klosterwappen and Kaiserstein) of the Schneeberg massif.

Hacker bowl, Schneeberg (Lower Austria)

Cog railway Schneebergbahn (Lower Austria), Modern Diesel Train called Salamander at the top station