There are several hundred backcountry skiing tours around Vienna. To be honest, only a handful of them do have a somewhat ‘alpine’ character. Most ski mountains close to Vienna are below the tree-line (about 1500 metres in this region) and thus are covered by sometimes dense forests and do have a somewhat hilly look. However, some mountain massifs are standing out over the crowd of hilly mountains. These mountains reach altitudes close to 2000m and thus their relative elevation to the surrounding environment is significant (in the case of Schneeberg it is about 1500 metres relative to the surrounding valleys). The peaks and summits of these mountains are well above the tree-line and, due to their geologic structures (steep limestone walls and cliffs), they have a considerable alpine character. As a downside their summit areas are extremely exposed to the usual storms (measured maximum wind speeds are well over 250 km per hour). So more often than not the snow at the slopes close to the summits is heavily influenced by the winds. Powder is often to be found only in some basins protected from winds and in the woods below the tree-line.
Here is a list of these mountain massifs close to Vienna (about 1 to 1.5 hour car drive from the Vienna city centre) and a short description of their skiing potential.
Schneeberg (2076m):
The highest mountain of Lower Austria (the federal state around Vienna) is also the Easternmost 2000er of the entire Alps. In clear air this outstanding mountain is visible from some points in Vienna as well as from western Hungary (around Sopron). This mountain offers extremely versatile skiing options for the whole winters. The standard ascent “Fadenweg” from Losenheim (small ski resort with a detachable chair lift which shortens the ascent) is straightforward and relatively safe (except after massif snow falls). The number of ski runs (including variants) goes well above hundred different options from easy to extremely difficult. The maximum vertical is 1500 m which is the maximum for the whole region.
Rax (2007m):
The Rax is a mountain massif South of the Schneeberg. A cable car gives access to the Rax pleatau (a relatively flat alpine plateau about 1500 to 1800 m ) the East of the mountain massif. This cable car departs in Hirschwang and was the first cable car built in Austria. There is a small drag lift near the top station of the cable car but the routes down to the valley are ungroomed and offer some of the best lift-assisted freeride possibilities (if conditions are good) of the entire Vienna region. The vertical is about 1000m. There are some dozens ski touring options at the Rax. An important starting point is the Preiner Gscheid (1070m) a mountain pass of the road leading from Hirschwang over to Styria. The Heukuppe (2007), the highest peak of the Rax massif is accessed via Preiner Gscheid – Karlgraben, one of the busiest ski tours of the entire Rax (though this route is not safe under certain conditions).
Ötscher (1893m):
The Ötscher is the defining mountain of the region West of Vienna. It towers well above all its neighbouring mountains and offers extremely interesting ski runs (from intermediate to difficult) both at its north as well as at its south sides. The ski resort of Lackenhof (several chairlifts and drag lifts, 16 kilometers of groomed pistes) eases the access to the summit considerable (1 h hike or skin to the summit from the top station of the double chair lift). The maximum vertical is about 1050m.
Schneealpe (1903m):
The Schneealpe is a mountain massif in Styria south of the Rax massif. Its highest peak is the Windberg (literally Windy Mountain). Like most of the mountain massifs of this region there is a fairly large and flat plateau just below the peak from which several ski runs of different difficulties are leading down in all directions. Though offering quite interesting terrain and runs the Schneealpe is somewhat overlooked by many skiers. Thus, for those looking for a solitary ski adventure the Schneealpe is probably a good bet. The maximum vertical of the ski runs is about 1000 m.
Hohe Veitsch (1981m):
The Hohe Veitsch is a huge mountain massif stretching from West to East. There are small (but interesting) ski resorts directly in the North (Niederalpl Pass, 1100-1450 m) and South (Brunnalm, 1000-1500m). Ascents to the main peak of the Veitsch start from both of these ski resorts. Some secondary peaks of the Veitsch offer interesting runs, which tend to hold powder fairly well (somewhat protected from storms). The classic approach is from the South via the Brunnalm / Schallerrinne and the Graf Meran hut. The classic ascent (and descent) from the North is the Rodel (starting near the tiny hamlet of Niederalpl at about 950m), a fairly long skin with some interesting slopes and one small step to scramble over (short iron ladder and wired ropes). The maximum vertical is about 1000m.
